Dans le profond dedale des rues et ruelles, des magasins, boutiques et echopes, le soleil recouvre les allees de sa couleur doree et propage des contrastes de lumieres et d’ombres. Il y a des zones de clair-obscur ou les marchandises et les visages prennent un mysterieux et saisissant relief. Je croise les yeux effiles d’un vieux marchand blotti dans son alveole et semblant receler toute l’astuce du monde. Plus loin, les rayons du soleil illuminant un grand samovar de metal cuivre. Welcome dans la vieille ville de Kathmandu!
* * *
In the deep maze of streets and lanes, shops, boutiques and stalls, the sun is covering the alleys with its golden light and spreads out shades and lights contrasts. There are areas of clair-obcur where the groceries and the faces take a mysterious and arresting relief. I cross the sharpened eyes of an old seller, uddle up against his cavity and who seem to contain the world's astuteness. Further away, the sun rays enlighten a big smoky copper samovar. Welcome in the old city of Kathmandu!
Mes errances a travers la vieille ville seront nombreuses et particulierement appreciees lors de la greve generale imposee par les maoistes. Il n'y aura alors plus de magasins ouverts ou de circulation a travers tout le Nepal. Et Kathmandu sans traffic c'est le reve meme si je comprends qu'il vaudrait mieux pour tout le monde que la situation ne s'eternise pas...
Les maoistes reclament une constitution en attente depuis 3 ans deja... Je ne peux pas les blamer... Et bonne chance au peuple nepalais car de toute evidence leur politiciens semblent particulierement pourris...
* * *
My restless wanderings around the old city will be numerous and especially enjoyable during the general strike imposed by the maoists. There will be then no more open shops or traffic at all through the entire country. And Kathmandu without traffic is bliss even if I understand it would be better if it the situation doesn't last too long...
The maoists claim for a constitution they've been waiting for 3 years already... I can't blame them... And good luck to the nepalese people because their politicians are obviously particularly roten...
The maoists claim for a constitution they've been waiting for 3 years already... I can't blame them... And good luck to the nepalese people because their politicians are obviously particularly roten...
Il me faudra 5 bons jours pour recuperer des 43h de trajet apres mon arrivee d'Inde. Je retrouve la des visages connus comme Thomas de Delhi, Basti et Francois de Gokarna et en rencontre d'autres. Bonjour a vous Agnese et Sylvain, Isabel, Raj au shop de telephone, Nico et tous les autres!
* * *
It will take me 5 good days to recover the 43h trip from India. I meet there some known faces as Thomas from Delhi, Basti and Francois from Gokarna and meet some more. Hello to all of you,
Agnese et Sylvain, Isabel, Raj at the STD (phoneshop), Nico!
It will take me 5 good days to recover the 43h trip from India. I meet there some known faces as Thomas from Delhi, Basti and Francois from Gokarna and meet some more. Hello to all of you,
Agnese et Sylvain, Isabel, Raj at the STD (phoneshop), Nico!
Nous serons plusieurs a rester 'coinces' a Freak street, non loin de Basantapur. L'ambiance y est relax, la vie locale suit son cours et j'y prends mes habitudes... Chai en coin de rue, bavassages a Basantapur, lectures, tai chi sur la terrasse, le temps passera vite. De plus, je trouve une chambre ou je me sentirais comme a la maison, il y a une cuisine et une terrasse pour 2.50 la nuit... Que demande le peuple? Un peu moins de coupures d'electricite peut etre (en moyenne 12h par jour, souvent des que la nuit est tombee... efficace...)
* * *
We are gonna be a few stuck in Freak street, close to Basantapur. The atmosphere there is really relax, the local life follows its path and I take my habits... Chai at the street corner, chats seated on the big stairs at Basantapur, readings, tai chi on the terrace, time will fly quickly.
I have also found a room where I feel like home. There is a kitchen and a terrace and I pay 1.5 euros per day... What else could I want? A bit less of powercuts maybe (about 12 hours per day, often as soon as it is dark... efficient...)
I have also found a room where I feel like home. There is a kitchen and a terrace and I pay 1.5 euros per day... What else could I want? A bit less of powercuts maybe (about 12 hours per day, often as soon as it is dark... efficient...)
Ma chambre
Basantapur
Je visite les temples temples de Pashupatinath et Bodnath en compagnie de Nico, mon nouveau voisin de palier avec qui je passerais plusieurs soirees a echanger et boire du the. Mais revenons a nos visites. Apres une marche dans un Kathmandu deserte, nous atteignons le premier site qui est un haut lieu de pelerinage hindou, ou des cremations ont lieu ainsi que la priere du soir appelee "Aarti". Il regne alors une chaleureuse ambiance ou la foule danse sur les rythmes fous joues par de bons musiciens. Le deuxieme est un stupa bouddhiste ou les pelerins tournent autour des yeux de Buddha dans le sens des aiguilles d'une montre et en faisant tourner les moulins a prieres.
* * *
I visit Pashupatinath et Bodnath temples with Nico, my new neighbour with whom I will spend a few evenings sharing and dinking tea. But lets get back to our visits. After a walk through a deserted city, we reach the first site which is a big hindu pilgrim one, where cremations are done. We assist at the evening prayer called aarti. It reigns then a warm atmosphere and the crowd dances on the crazy rhythms played by the good musicians.
The second site is the bouddhist stupa of Bodnath where the pilgrims are turning clockwise around Buddha's eyes, while wearling a prayer wheel.
The second site is the bouddhist stupa of Bodnath where the pilgrims are turning clockwise around Buddha's eyes, while wearling a prayer wheel.
Bodnath
Toujours en compagnie de Nico, nous voila un autre jour escaladant la colline de Swayambunath ou Monkey temple, pour la fin de la journee. Le site est alors deserte ou presque et c'est fort agreable d'y errer en attendant la nuit...
* * *
Another day, here are we climbing up Swayambunath hill or the Monkey temple. The site is almost deserted and it is really enjoyable to wander around while waiting for the night to fall...
Et bien sur les gens font l'endroit. Voici quelques portraits...
* * *
And of course, people are making the place. Here are some portraits...
Se pose alors la question de la suite du voyage. Je me decide enfin a partir pour le Tibet et reserve mon voyage. Je croise par hasard dans la rue Pascal de Belgique, rencontre en Malaisie il y a 2 ans, puis revu en Inde aussi. Et quelle bonne surprise d'apprendre que nous serons dans le meme bus pour cette nouvelle aventure! Ca promet!
* * *
And then comes the question of the following part of this trip. I finally decide to go to Tibet and book my trip. I meet spontanuously Pascal from Belgium, known 2 years ago in Malaysia. And what a good news to learn that we are going in the same bus for this new adventure! Promissing!
